Monday, March 16, 2020

Add to your Puppy Supplies -- a Pooper Scooper!

Forgot to add this to my MV Puppy Supplies handout! A must have -- the pooper scooper with rake! Rake helps get the poop off the grass. I wish I had a $1.00 for each BB poop I've picked up over the last 7 weeks!



Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PUPTECK-Pet-Poop-Tray-Rake/dp/B07L3RK2WR?ref_=s9_apbd_otopr_hd_bw_b3KZcaB&pf_rd_r=V7GJ4BPEJ3BNGK6KHVZ7&pf_rd_p=40137ee4-bc42-5670-a8dc-a0aa32dd9069&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=3052415011

"On leash" etiquette -- most dogs do not want to meet you leashed dog, ever....

You are Not an Exception to the Rule:  Please Share This Blog Post with ALL Your Dog Owning Friends
Spring is coming!  This means that we all want to get outdoors and enjoy more time in nature.  I am often sad to see this because it means my beloved peaceful trails are overrun with folks who don’t understand trail manners and rules; especially when it comes to dogs.
My dogs do not want to meet your dogs, ever.  There is no situation in the world where my dogs are interested in an interaction with strange dogs.  If they need friends I will hand pick them from the dogs of people I know and trust. Does that make me weird and/or rude?  Okay then, I’m good with that.
I hike in many different places with my dogs and most of those places have very clear leash laws.  I follow them and I expect you to follow them as well. You are not an exception to the rule! Loose dogs running up to leashed dogs is a recipe for disaster.  People need to know this. In fact, two leashed dogs meeting is usually a very bad idea as well. Leashes prohibit natural dog body language from happening and can lead to misunderstandings.  Better to avoid them.  
Yesterday I walked past a woman who had 3 dogs on leash.  I had no choice but to pass her as it was on a boardwalk and there was nowhere to move over and give space, which is my preference if possible.  Hearing her chant of “be nice, be nice, be nice” set my spidey senses tingling for sure. My dogs are trained to move close to my side, focus on me, and keep moving with me in these situations, and they are good at it.  But it’s stressful for them and for me.  
I understand the desire to take your dog out in the world to have a good time. That is exactly why I’m out there. The thing is, many dogs I see out on the trails aren’t enjoying it all that much.  They are busy freaking out about other dogs. They are not “friendly”; they are overstimulated and unable to control themselves. That’s not fun for them. And it doesn’t look like much fun for their owners either.  It would be so much better to seek out a good trainer/behaviorist and learn about appropriate activities and effective ways to address emotional health and well-being. It’s completely possible to teach your dog good trail manners, and that includes ignoring others.  
     
And just to point in case these pics make you think my dogs are not leashed, when I take photos other dogs are not around, my dogs still have their leashes on, I step away, take pics, go back, give treats, and pick up their leashes again.  They are well-trained to stay in that spot until I return to them.
When your dog is screaming and clawing in the air at the end of a tight leash trying to get to my dogs he’s not having a good time and he doesn’t want to be friends.  He’s totally overloaded and likely to do something you will deeply regret if he gets the opportunity. As the human half of the team please take responsibility for your dog’s behavior and seek out qualified help.  
One of my dogs is older.  He has diminished eyesight and doesn’t see well what’s coming at him from a distance.  Your dog streaking towards him causes confusion and concern for both him and for me. Your desire to give your dog freedom does not outweigh my desire to keep my dog secure and comfortable.  Remember, you are not an exception to the rule! I walk in places with leash laws on purpose. I expect my dogs to be safe from being molested by off leash dogs here.  
I so appreciate people who follow the rules and are also thoughtful about how their dog’s behavior might affect others.  When someone calls their dog back to them and puts them on leash I thank them profusely. Simple rule. If you cannot immediately recall your dog regardless of the distractions then there is no way they should be off leash, even in off leash areas.  Second simple rule. Assume that people and dogs are out in the woods to seek solitude, not to make friends. Be polite, smile, nod, and keep moving. If you can’t follow these rules then please get some good training help before you hit the trails again.  

Field Trip and our first bird wing!

We're going on a field trip? What's that?

Oh yes! Baker on the move!

Bowen sampling some yummy grass!

The chase is ON!

Oh YUM!


Gonna gotcha!

Poolside chillin!

Lapdogs in training . . .

The pups had a blast on their first field trip to San Clemente. A couple of them fell into the pool and/or koi pond and were quickly fished out and towel dried. None were the worse for wear. They also had an impromptu demo on "wing on a string" which gets them interested in bird scent and ignites their prey drive. More photos are in the Puppy Photo Album!

Thursday, March 12, 2020

Info on puppy pen setup for your new best friend

Puppy management is the best way to ensure success for your new puppy. This includes, gates/crates and setting up the puppy for success by providing a potty area or 24/7 "two eyes on the puppy" to take pup outside to potty. 

If you need to contain the pup while doing something else, below is an example of great setup. 

Future Owners: feel please ask me for clarification on how best to organize your puppy pen. Note - artificial grass is preferred. 



A lot goes in to bringing home a new puppy, including setting them (and you!) up for success as they learn what behaviors are ok when they live in a human house! 
One of those successful set-ups is a puppy playpen! This area will be a safe place for your puppy to spend time during the first few weeks after they arrive home.

A few things go into setting up a good puppy playpen, including where you position each station! Here is one idea for what this playpen might look like, although your individual house set-up should inform exactly how your pen is put together.
The bottom line is thinking about the behaviors you want your puppy to do (or not do), and setting up their environment to facilitate those good choices as much as possible!
Credit: https://www.facebook.com/summitdogtraining

Are you ready to get a puppy?

Are you ready to get a puppy?

Sharing from Vizsla Puppies Facebook group -- A MUST READ!

Ready everyone??!! Before you buy your first puppy, take this test to find out if you can cope with living and looking after your puppy:

This test is best taken in the autumn or mid winter!

1. Buy a lead and tie it to a big stone, walk around dragging the stone behind you
2. Get up at 5am, go out in the pouring rain and walk up and down a muddy path, repeating good girl/boy, "wee wees...poo poos, quickly please"
3. Stuff your pockets with plastic bags and pick up all the dog poo you can find, obviously not your dog's as you have not bought it yet
4. Start wearing your shoes indoors, especially during muddy times
5. Collect leaves off the ground and spread them on the floor
6. Carry sticks and branches indoors and chop them up on your carpet
7. Pour cold applejuice on the rug and floor....walk barefooted over it in the dark
8. Drop some chocolate pudding on your carpet in the morning and then try to clean it in the evening
9. Wear socks to which you have made holes using a blender
10. Jump out of your favorite chair just before the movie ends and run to open the back door
11. Cover all your best clothes with dog hair, dark clothes with blond hairs and light clothes with dark hairs
12. Tip all just ironed clothes on the floor
13. Make little pin holes in all your funiture, especially chair and table legs
14. When doing dishes, splash water all over the place and don't wipe it.
15. Spread toilet paper all over the house when you leave the house and tidy up when you get back home
16. Forget any impulse holidays and/or breaks
17. Always go home straight after work or school
18. Go walkies no matter what the weather, and inspect every dirty paper, chewing gum and dead fly you might find
19. Stand at your back door at five in the morning shouting "Bring Mr Bumble and Mr Lion in, it's raining!"
20. Wake up at 3am. Place a bag of flour on top of yourself and try to sleep, while wiping your face with a wet dishcloth, which you have left next to your bed in a bowl last week.

Repeat everyday over 6 months and if you still think getting a puppy sounds like a good idea, congratulations, you might be ready to get your puppy! 😆😆😆

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

Things Vizsla Owners Wish They Had Known Before Getting Their First Vizsla

Zene, Lyra, Emery, Annie and Csilla (back row)

About Vizsla ownership, you might have heard, "You will never go to the bathroom alone again".
Well, its true! 

Check out the entire article "Things Vizsla Owners Most Wish They Had Known in Advance of Getting Their First Vizsla" (from a poll of VizslaTalk list members).  Link:  

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

Adapted from the WDJ article (source below):


There’s an old joke about if there’s one thing that two dog trainers can agree on, it’s that the third one is doing it wrong. But, I’ve found something that very nearly ALL dog trainers agree on, and that I will defend anywhere, anytime, and it’s this: Retractable leashes have no place in dog training.

It almost reaches the level of a joke: If you go to a dog park or almost any gathering of dog people and their dogs, the worst-behaved dogs will be the ones on retractable leashes. It’s sort of a chicken or the egg thing: What came first, the poorly behaved dog or the leash that teaches him nothing?

They aren't good for adult dogs, and never a puppy.

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash
  1. The length of retractable leashes (name brand: Flexi), some of which can extend up to 26 feet, allows dogs to get far enough away from their humans that a situation can quickly turn dangerous. A dog on a retractable leash is often able to run into the middle of the street, for example, or make uninvited contact with other dogs or people.
  2. In the above scenario, or one in which your pet is being approached by an aggressive dog, it is nearly impossible to get control of the situation if the need arises. It's much easier to regain control of – or protect -- a dog at the end of a six-foot standard flat leash than it is if he's 20 or so feet away at the end of what amounts to a thin string.
  3. The thin cord of a retractable leash can break – especially when a powerful dog is on the other end of it. If a strong, good-sized dog takes off at full speed, the cord can snap. Not only can that put the dog and whatever he may be chasing in danger, but also the cord can snap back and injure the human at the other end.
  4. If a dog walker gets tangled up in the cord of a retractable leash, or grabs it in an attempt to reel in their dog, it can result in burns, cuts, and even amputation. In addition, many people have been pulled right off their feet by a dog that reaches the end of the leash and keeps going. This can result in bruises, "road rash," broken bones, and worse.
  5. Dogs have also received terrible injuries as a result of the sudden jerk on their neck that occurs when they run out the leash, including neck wounds, lacerated tracheas, and injuries to the spine.
  6. Retractable leashes allow dogs more freedom to pull at the end of them, which can look like aggression to another dog who may decide to "fight back."
  7. The handles of retractable leashes are bulky and can be easily pulled out of human hands, resulting in a runaway dog.
  8. Along those same lines, many dogs – especially fearful ones – are terrorized by the sound of a dropped retractable leash handle and may take off running, which is dangerous enough. To make matters worse, the object of the poor dog's fear is then "chasing" her, and if the leash is retracting as she runs, the handle is gaining ground on her – she can't escape it. Even if this scenario ultimately ends without physical harm to the dog (or anyone else), it can create lingering fear in the dog not only of leashes, but also of being walked.
  9. Retractable leashes, like most retractable devices, have a tendency to malfunction over time, either refusing to extend, refusing to retract, or unspooling at will.
  10. Retractable leashes are an especially bad idea for dogs that haven't been trained to walk politely on a regular leash. By their very nature, retractables train dogs to pull while on leash, because they learn that pulling extends the lead.
Full Article: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2014/06/11/retractable-dog-leash.aspx?x_cid=20141014_ranart_petretracableleash_facebookdoc

More reading:  Reel It In - Why I Don't Like Retractable Leashes - https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/blog/Retractable-leashes-in-dog-training-21740-1.html?ET=wholedogjournal:e286358:821510a:&st=email&s=p_Blog110917

Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Six Weeks Old!


 


The BB's are six weeks old! Time is flying by -- I keep saying that but it's true!

They are having a blast exploring their outdoor area and getting better (thankfully) at going potty on their indoor grass/potty box. 

The puppies have been introduced to the Clicker and are doing advanced Manding (see previous post on Puppy Culture). 

They are also sleeping through the night in a one big crate which I will swap for two as all eight pups are barely able to fit inside. 

They've had several visitors for socialization following strict hand washing and disinfecting protocols (better to be safe than sorry). 

Monday, March 9, 2020

Your Vizslas Natural Instinct!


Vizslas are a high prey/high energy sporting dog bred to point and retrieve upland game. There is nothing more exciting than seeing your pup's natural instincts. Even if you are not a regular hunter, the AKC offers Hunt Tests to test your dog's potential as a hunter, his/her desire to find birds and his/her ability to point long enough for you to reach them. The basic test is the Junior Hunter, the AKC has a great video detailing the JH title. 

I encourage all my puppy owners to give this a try, there are areas to train in most every region and I am more than happy to help you get your pup started on birds! 

Emery on her first bird at 10 weeks old
Photo by Kevin Billy
She will be pursuing her Senior Hunter title later this year . . .

Saturday, March 7, 2020

The Strongest Reinforcements


Ask a dog trainer to tell you one of their biggest pet peeves about their training clients, and they will almost always mention the fact that the average dog owner almost seems to actively resist the concept of “high-value rewards.”

I’ve sat in on a lot of different trainers’ classes, and during the first session, all trainers make an effort to describe the treats they want to see their clients bring to puppy kindergarten and beginning dog training classes: extra-special treats, such as fresh meats and tiny cubes of fragrant cheeses. Extra-high-value treats are needed, it is explained, because the group-class environment is so exciting and distracting to the dogs and puppies who are new to this, that the owners will need reinforcers of the highest value to the dogs, to capture and hold their attention in a highly distracting environment. (A training center can also be very stressful for shy, undersocialized, or fearful dogs.)

I’ve heard trainers go on and on, for 10 minutes at a time, about the need for really succulent foods to be used as treats (not just dried treats or kibble, no matter how food-motivated the pup or dog is at home), not feeding the dogs before class (so the pup won’t be full of food already and unable to physically eat much more), cutting the treats into tiny bits (so many of them can be fed in a class), including a variety (not just one type, so the dog doesn’t get bored), and bringing more than the owner thinks she might possibly need, because you will be using many, many tiny treats in a 50-minute beginning dog-training class.

Trainers make such a fuss over the value and type and variety and amount of treats because, again and again, owners arrive to class and are shocked—SHOCKED!—to discover that:

Their dogs are too distracted or stressed to take any but the most over-the-top delicious treats in the class setting.
Their dogs completely disregard the owners’ pouches full of cut-up hot dogs and, instead, go bananas for the trainer’s samples of stinky cheese, tuna bits, roast beef, and freeze-dried liver.
By the end of the class, when the trainer is saying, “Yes! That was great! Mark and reward that behavior!” and the owners often reply, “But I’m out of treats!”
To defend their choices, almost all owners will say, “But he works for kibble at home! I thought hot dogs would be ‘high-value’ enough! And I cut that hot dog into 20 pieces!”

(For what it’s worth, when I use hot dogs as training treats, I cut each one into about 64 pieces: Slice them lengthwise, roll it over halfway and slice it lengthwise again, so you have four long, skinny pieces. Then, holding it together, slice it across, about 16 times, so you end up with 64 or so tiny treats.)

By the end of a six-week class, though, any trainer worth her salt should be able to peek in every student’s bait bag and see a wide variety of scrumptious meats and cheeses and treats, all cut into tiny bits. Success!!
The best and highest-value treats 🌭

One of the main points that trainers will make during their first-class discussion is that owners should be prepared with a toy or food treat that is THE MOST valuable to the dog, for reinforcing behaviors that are particularly difficult for the dog, or for when the dog performs extraordinarily well in the face of a particularly difficult distraction.

I recently got a great reminder of how well it works to use especially yummy treats for behaviors that are especially critical.

I used to bring the dogs with me to an office about five miles from where I live; we drove into town most mornings. Last September, my husband and I completed construction of a small outbuilding on our property and then sold the house in town that I had been using as an office (and renting rooms to students) for the past eight years or so. Since then, the dogs and I commute about 50 yards from my back door to my new little office building. It’s great! And I love the new routine—with the exception of how it sometimes clashes with the routine of one of our neighbors.

We’ve been having an ongoing issue with a guy who lives up the road and walks his dog past my property every morning. For what reason, I do not know, but he stops at a certain spot by the fence in my front yard every day without fail, fishes a treat out of his pocket, and feeds it to his dog. And then he stands there for a minute or two, just hanging out. (We’ve introduced ourselves. He’s not just hanging out because he wants someone to talk to because sometimes he is chatty and sometimes he’s not. He sometimes will indicate he is listening to something with his earphones and just wave.)

I don’t know whether it’s just the fact that he stops there (instead of walking or jogging or biking by, like most people do, unremarked upon by my dogs), or something about his dog, the treat-feeding, or the guy himself, but when my dogs are outside and they see him coming along down the rural road I live on, they immediately start barking and run to the fence. Something about his walking/stopping habit drives them nuts.

If no one were to respond to them, my dogs would undoubtedly run, barking, along every inch of the 600 feet or so of the fence line that the guy walks by. But this is a behavior I can’t live with (and don’t want them to practice), so the dogs are never outdoors without someone being alert and ready to call them back to the house at the very first bark we hear. I’m telling you, I don’t so much as step into the bathroom in the morning without calling the dogs indoors first—that’s how much I don’t want them to have a chance to practice charging toward the fence!

On the days that they happen to be outside when “the guy with the dog” comes along, I always call them in, and then give them something to reinforce their prompt response. Sometimes I have treats handy, but sometimes I might have to look in the fridge for some cheese or something. They have even gotten just plain old kibble a time or two.

But after we reviewed canned dog foods for the December issue, I had a small mountain of cans of delicious foods on hand. And if I heard the dogs alert, I whistle or call them, and run for the canned food stash. It didn’t take them long to learn to run from wherever they are on our two acres to where I am in less than the time it takes to pop the lid off a can when they hear one of my two recall cues. And their recalls were already pretty prompt! A consistent super reinforcer has resulted in a super duper recall. Best yet, now, though they still let out a few woofs when the see “the guy with the dog” coming down the road, they usually woof as they run to find me and my super high-value canned food reinforcer. This stuff really works!

Source: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/blog/the-strongest-reinforcements/

What is Puppy Culture "Manding"?

Reminders/info from Jane Messineo Lindquist from Puppy Culture

This is a global "Manding" post - we get more questions about manding than any other PC protocol, and it's also the most misunderstood protocol because it's so often confused with "sitting politely for petting" which is a completely different concept. So here are the links with all the information you need on manding:

http://bit.ly/IAABCMANDING - my article in the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants on manding which describes the history of the concept, its basic application, and benefits.

http://bit.ly/MANDINGFAILURE - my article on what manding is and is not and why puppies who are taught to mand will (and should) still jump up on people sometimes

http://bit.ly/MANDINGDISCRIMSTIM - my article on how and when to honor the mand, and how and when to let the puppy know that his opportunity for petition is closed at this time ;).

Original post: https://bit.ly/2ZpNcWE

Monday, March 2, 2020

5️⃣ things for successful dog ownership . . .

Five things that we want pet owners to know about successful dog ownership: 
  • Crate train. Even if you leave your dog out when mature, crate train. Most issues with destruction, eating things dogs shouldn't, and many other issues are solved by crate training. And consider transporting your dog safely, stay overs at a boarding facility or the vet's, or needing to leave them in a room with a raw steak on the counter. Crates are the answer for that too!
  • Socialization isn't about meeting other dogs and people. Really. It isn't. It's about exposing your dog to the daily world and teaching them to focus on you. Would you believe me if I told you my dogs have never been to puppy play groups, they never ever say hi to other dogs on walks, and they certainly don't say hi to people either unless permission is asked and given? That's actually normal! Let your dog have one or two friends and that's seriously good enough.
  • Dog parks- we don't use them, but if you must, use extreme caution. Seriously. Go ask a long time breeder, sport handler, or working handler what they think of dog parks. If you absolutely can't imagine life without them, take precautions!
  • Keep your dogs away from other dogs out and about. We don't care if they are friendly, and we don't care if they won't hurt anything. You and your dog don't have the right to interact with others, and you never know when a dog is sick, injured, training, working, or reactive. Use the leash, and don't come within 30 feet without asking first.
  • All dog owners should learn the basics of body language. In my opinion, this is far more important than teaching a dog to sit. You need to know how your dog feels about things and you need to be able to read a situation.
  • Bonus: Don't let your dog stare at other dogs. Bad plan. Even with the little ones. People always wonder why my dogs hackle at the little ones yapping and pulling at the end of the leash- those little ones are being confrontational. Help other dog owners by making sure your own dog is acting appropriately and focused on YOU.

Source: Manitoba Dog Training and Ethical Breeding Education

PRIMARY SOCIALIZATION: DAY 20-WEEK 6


The BB's are going to be 5 weeks old tomorrow (March 2nd).

They have moved from the whelping box to their Puppy Party Palace (they actually have two) which is a linoleum lined gated area with potty, bed and play areas. They are learning to use the potty box area but with eight there are bound to be mistakes. Most of my free time is being spent as the sanitation worker trying to keep the area as clean as possible in the hopes they will eventually potty in a designated area (cross your fingers for me!). 

They are sleeping on a Kuranda raised bed covered in blankets and there are soft blankets on the floor (and pee pads) for traction and wetness control (urine). They also have a hard plastic crate to nap in if they choose (eventually there will be eight crates). 

They love the Puppy Toy Mobile (with hanging objects) and are having fun with each new toy/experience per day. 

For those familiar with Puppy Culture the puppies have done the "barrier challenge" to learn to problem solve for themselves which reduces frustration in adult dogs. Future puppy owners -- please be sure yo are watching the Puppy Culture DVDs (thanks!). 




PRIMARY SOCIALIZATION PERIOD: DAY 20-WEEK 6

The first socialization period begins at two-and-a-half weeks of age and lasts until six weeks of age. This is when the puppies learn how to be dogs, so to speak. They become familiar with all the species-specific behaviors that allows them to live and communicate with other dogs, such as different body postures and vocalizations. They also learn how to bite and what it feels like to be bitten. This is an important lesson for puppies to learn when they are young, so they do not hurt other dogs and people as adults. The mother also teaches the pups very important lessons on discipline and dog-manners. Puppies will also begin to move to specific locations to potty, preferring not to mess up the den or whelping area.