Tuesday, May 19, 2020

16 Week Weights

Deacon - 21.6 lbs.
Dare - 22.3 lbs.
Ambrose - 30 lbs.
Dublin - 23 lbs.
Gigi - 22.1 lbs.
Phoenix - 27 lbs.
Briggs - 23.5 lbs.
Ripley - 25.6 lbs.

As a general rule you can take this weight and double it for their adult size!

Emery is 40 lbs.
Jett is 46 lbs.

Tuesday, May 5, 2020

And then there were NONE!


And then there were NONE! Last but not least, Bradley/Orange Boy 🧡 is now "Briggs"! This cool little dude had zero issues making a 3,300 mile road trip to join Katie and her Vizslas, Landon & Halle in Southampton, NY. Huge thank you to everyone who helped transport this pup from San Diego>>Denver>>Camp Rhapsody, NC>>Southampton. "Briggs" is named after "Sky Briggs" a character in the James Bond movie "GoldenEye 007" and the name is a nod to his Great-Grandfather "JB" (https://bit.ly/35udY4E) who we all loved and adored. We are looking forward to seeing Briggs in the Show ring, and other Performance events and he will be a service dog for Katie. There were some tears sending off this puppy, but I know I will see him again! Bye bye Briggs, we will miss you! 😘

"Briggs" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight Reason to Believe

📷 Michelle

Monday, April 27, 2020

And then there was ONE!



And then there was ONE! Brecklen/Lime Boy💚 now "Dublin" joins Sam, Eckhard & "Oslo" in San Diego. So thrilled this charismatic fella ended up in a home that will allow him to shine 🌟 We look forward to seeing him in the Show ring as well as Hunt/Field and other performance events. He's already BFFs with his cousin "Oslo" (Jensie/Harley) and we can't wait to watch them grow up together!

"Dublin" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight I Believe In You

Saturday, April 25, 2020

Complete House Training Guide

Ultimate Guide to House-Training Your Puppy, you will learn:

  • How to prevent accidents before they happen
  • How to customize a potty routine appropriate for your puppy's age
  • Tips to teach your dog to potty quickly and reliably as soon as they go outside
  • What to do if your dog has an accident in the house
  • How to teach your dog to potty in a specific area in the yard
  • Ways to recognize when your dog needs to go outside (coming soon)
  • How to teach your dog to tell you when they need to potty (coming soon)

Link to more: https://www.levelupdogtraining.com/puppy-training/puppy-potty-training-planner/?fbclid=IwAR0fKqiOpv41geT5wLiqbrAYHKGwIPjNuOmgYiRpfTWDjCooMCzz6lkR_Ug

Saturday, April 18, 2020

Puppies Won’t Wait - Socialization during the COVID19 pandemic by the Ultimate Puppy

Puppies Won’t Wait

This pandemic has changed a lot of things, including how we approach our Socialization Strategy with young pups. But it hasn’t changed the fact that this stage of development ends early. The goal to introduce your puppy to a variety of people, places, surfaces and sounds before they are 16 weeks remains the same. We must do this as responsible citizens and responsible puppy people. Ultimate Puppy is here to help.

Saturday, April 4, 2020

And then there were TWO!


And then there were TWO! Brooklyn/Pink Girl 💓 now "Dare" joined the Madden Family in Irvine, CA. "Dare" is a firecracker who is always ready for action, she was the referee of her litter (six brothers) and has a penchant for outsmarting anyone. We look forward to her strutting her stuff in the Show ring and Hunt tests. She has quite the nose on her so who knows what else she will get into! Her name is a tribute to Britt's dog who would have been 40 this month. Britt was kind enough to connect us, and I am so excited to have Dare land is such a fantastic home -- where she will no doubt be the center of attention!

"Dare" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight 'Dare II Believe In Me

Friday, April 3, 2020

And then there were THREE!


And then there were THREE! Bruno/Purple Boy 💜 now "Phoenix" joined the Hines Family in Culver City, CA. He is simply put the sweetest boy! We look forward to seeing him in the Show ring (his family hopes to get involved in Junior Showmanship) as well as Hunt/Field as he was so stylish on the bird wing. Can't wait to see what the future holds for this handsome fellow!

"Phoenix" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight Believe in Magic

Wednesday, April 1, 2020

Socialization and Social Distancing


(c) 2020 Alissa Mosier CPDT-KA. All rights reserved. Used by permission

With puppy classes on hold, and people practicing social distancing I have had a few clients reach out and ask what they can do to keep their puppy socialized, and to expose them to new things. I did my best to put together some things to do, this is not a definitive list, it is a list of things to try, things to do, and ways to keep busy. If you think of something else, feel free to give it a try, or if something is just not for your puppy, skip it!

First though, a warning. Socialization is about quality, not quantity. It is also about creating quality experiences for your puppy. You want to go slow, at your puppy’s speed, and make sure you are not overwhelming them. Watch their body language, are their ears shifting back, are they lip licking, is their brow furroughing? If they start to worry watch and see if they can resolve it, if they cannot back them up, can they resolve it with more space? No, then go on home, or stop, and try again later. Sometimes if a puppy has already done too much they just cannot handle another thing, or, sometimes they are tired, or sometimes they are worried. Forcing them through something will not make it positive though, and in fact it may make it worse. If you want to learn more about socialization and how to help your puppy I suggest watching the seminar Mindful Socialization by Suzanne Clothier. I was involved in the production and it was incredibly helpful to me as a trainer, and a dog owner.

Second, bring treats. If your puppy can enjoy a snack as things go on around them – yay! What a great day for a puppy. The treats may also help you work through a sticky point, or be needed to manage an over-excited or worried puppy and lure them out of a situation. If you are in a spot without treats, and things get scary, and your puppy is unfocused and barking, that may be experiences we have to undo later, so, use food and make it awesome as much as possible.

Here is a list of some suggestions:
  • If you cannot get your puppy around different types of people, wearing different types of clothes, become those different people for your puppy! Start wearing hats, sunglasses, coats, wigs, Halloween costumes, masks, whatever strikes your fancy! Put on any weird thing around your puppy and make it seem totally normal.  Just please do not startle your puppy. Do not put on a Batman mask and jump out at your puppy, sit in front of her and let her see you put it on and take it off a few times. Same with the glasses, or hats. Let them see you change and realize that sometimes people look different, but they are still people.
  • Show them seasonal clothes or stuff they would not see everyday! Put on a rain coat, open an umbrella, break out your pancho, roll a suitcase around, go outside and show your pup a wheelbarrow and a hose and a rake and whatever is in your garage!
  • Break out some throw rugs, cardboard boxes, metal cookie trays, measuring cups, metal spoons, bells, balls, any weird things and put them on the floor as your puppy plays. Ask them to walk over weird stuff, to play with weird stuff and get used to different materials under their feet and in their mouth.
  • Break out toys that make sound have flashing light, let them check those out. If you have ones that move or dance, all the better!
  • Take out your lawn mower, rev it up, take out the weedwacker, rev it up. Chainsaw – sure! Let the neighbors think you are crazy (and feel free to send me video please – ha!). Inside use your coffee grinder, your blender, a food processor, vaccuum, carpet cleaner, whatever is different. You want to get really brave, put the fire alarm very, very far away and set it off and give your puppy treats while it happens.
  • Just because you have to stay apart does not mean you cannot see people. Drive to the grocery store, go to the back of the lot where there is no one close, and people watch with your dog. You can also do this with the vets office or a pet center to watch the dogs come in and out.
  • Bored neighborhood kids? Talk to their parents and ask them to ride their bikes by your house at set times so you can have your dog see them from a distance. Have them use scooters, throw footballs, bounce basketballs, ride a skateboard, make noises and be kids! Really want to go nuts? Ask them to wear costumes or hats and really give your pup some new things to see. From a distance! Don’t have kids? Go on YouTube and find some video of kids laughing, crying, screaming and being kids and at least play those sounds for your puppy, all while sharing some awesome snacks.
  • Take a drive to the country, check out cows, horses, sheep, llamas.
  • Drive your pup to a boat lock, look at the boats, walk on the weird surfaces. Go to the gas station and have them wait in your car as you pump gas. Take them to a drive through for coffee (well, coffee for you, puppies do not need caffeine!). Go to the places you hope to go when they are older, even if you cannot go near people, or you may not be able to inside, you can get them used to the ride and the area.
  • Remember, quality, not quantity. Use the check-lists below if they help. Make memories, create positive experiences, have fun and take pictures. Puppyhood does not last forever and while this one will be a little non-traditional, it is still going to be awesome and you will miss it when they are big (minus the house training part).



And then there were FOUR!


And then there were FOUR! Brixton/Yellow Boy 💛 now "Ripely" joined the Anderson's in Danville, CA. He's already won over "Sherlock" -- they are best buds! The family has *big plans* for Ripley including show (Akemi/Sachi) and hunt/field (Sachi) and Obedience/Rally (Akemi) and he'll likely be a Instagram influencer in no time! 😎 So excited to have Ripley land in such a fabulous home!

"Ripley" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight Believe it Or Not!

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

And then there were FIVE!


And then there were FIVE! Blaine/Burgundy Girl joined the Moreno Family in Camarillo, CA. They lost their former Vizsla "Kobi" back in 2018 at 15(!) years old. Little Tunde is already being spoiled by their family of five, the eldest son slept on the floor next to her crate last night. Since she lives near Simi, so we hope to see her for playdates in the future. Baby Tunde has a nose for birds and may dabble in scent work. Right now her family is excited to clicker train her and continue using PC protocols.

"Blaine" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight I Want to Believe

Monday, March 30, 2020

And then there were SIX!



And then there were SIX! Bowen/Red Boy ❤️ now "Ambrose" joined Mikalya & Jonathan in Tustin, CA. Mikayla is a Karyn Pryor graduate (KPA-CTP) and dog trainer/behavioralist at the ASPCA. She wanted an Agility dog and one she could show herself. This puppy is ALL of that and a bag of chips!!! 😍 He's never had a bad day and his favorite thing is working for treats and playing with Uncle Sal (see video!). He has a new housemate Foxy (a one eyed rescue dog from Mexico) and their first introduction went amazing.

"Ambrose" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight Don't Stop Believing

Sunday, March 29, 2020

And then there were SEVEN!


And then there were SEVEN! Baker/Blue Boy 💙now "Deacon a/k/a Deeks" joined Adam in Colorado after a whirlwind road trip back and forth from CO to CA in two (2) days! Adam had a puppy from my first litter in 2009 ("Priest" Dallas/Csilla) and it's such a nice compliment when people come back for another. So happy this worked out! We hope to see Deacon in the field one day (and I can't wait to visit them later this summer 🤞).

"Deacon a/k/a Deeks" (Jett/Emery)
Moonlight name TBD

Friday, March 27, 2020

Stainless is best but keep it slime free!


Ever rub your fingers on the inside of your pet’s water bowl and you feel a slippery slime of sorts? Well that invisible goo is called Biofilm.

Biofilm is a collection of organic and inorganic, living and dead materials collected on a surface. It is made up of many different types of bacteria bound together in a thick substance that acts as a glue to both hold the bacteria together and adhere it to a surface.

Biofilm can often be good bacteria but there is also the bad!

To learn more about good bacteria- click here!
Biofilms provide a safe haven for organisms like Listeria, E. coli and legionella where they can reproduce to levels where contamination of products passing through that water becomes inevitable. Bad Biofilms have been found to be involved in a wide variety of microbial infections in the body such as urinary tract infectionsmiddle-ear infections and bladder infections.
How to reduce Biofilm:
  1. Remember to clean your pet’s water bowl at least once a week if you can and change water daily.
  2. For pet daycares where a host of different bacteria float around in water bowls, wash daily!
  3. For best results, run your water bowls through a hot cycle in the dishwasher with an eco friendly, non-toxic soap to really clean out the biofilm!
(P.S. – I am going to get lambasted over the “wash once a week at least” concept. However, after a wonderful discussion with a well known pro-active veterinarian/scientist, when she studied the bacteria looming in pets’ water bowls she found if you have a healthy beast, biofilm can actually be full of wonderful, healthy bacteria. It’s like playing in the mud as kids and having good bacteria all over you! So sometimes cleaning regularly can wash all the good stuff away.)

Friday, March 20, 2020

Socializing Puppies During The Coronavirus Pandemic


Let's talk about the question that has to be foremost in any breeder's mind right now...socialization during the coronavirus pandemic. I'm in this situation myself with a 12 week old puppy in my house that normally would be in the midst of daily exposures to important things. I've taken a hard look at my past research on socialization and viewed that in light of the US government's call for measures to stop the spread of the virus, and I have, if not a plan, at least a distilled version of the considerations, with some definite "dos," some definite "don'ts" and some definite "it depends." But I will say at the outset this is all very fluid so, in the end, you have to be alert to changing facts and use your own judgement.
Update Friday, March 20, 2020:  The governors of California and New York State have ordered 100% of non-essential workers to stay home.  Notwithstanding anything in this article, please comply with all federal, state and local laws.
Back in the day, (like, last week) socialization was a pretty straightforward weighing of risk benefit based solely on risk to the puppy- bottom line, wait until an appropriate age and vaccination status, stay away from high risk areas for canine infectious diseases and advocate for your puppy so that every encounter is a positive one:
Picture
But in the space of a week, coronavirus has changed everything and now governments in virtually every country are asking us to practice "social distancing" which is, on its face, contrary to socializing puppies.  So now the puppy socialization diagram looks like this:
Picture
With that big, fat question mark on the bottom.  The good news is that, although the safe space for socializing puppies has just gotten a lot smaller, it's still there.  So let's look at what we CAN do and what we SHOULD do.
Two points to consider regarding our normal assumptions about socialization of puppies:
  • In their seminal work on socialization, Scott and Fuller accidentally discovered that puppies just seeing a person standing passively from the shoulders up behind a fence did in fact become at least partially socialized to humans.  So actual contact with novel humans and things may be optimal, but a lot of benefit can still be had from a puppy just observing stuff.
  • Dogs relate to their world much more through their sense of smell than any other sense.  As primates, we are focused on touching, holding and caressing, particularly front to front contact.  Dogs naturally prefer to pick up information via scent, and that sense of smell is astounding - from Nova's article, "Dog's Dazzling Sense of Smell": 
    • "Dogs' sense of smell overpowers our own by orders of magnitude—it's 10,000 to 100,000 times as acute, scientists say. "Let's suppose they're just 10,000 times better," says James Walker, former director of the Sensory Research Institute at Florida State University, who, with several colleagues, came up with that jaw-dropping estimate during a rigorously designed, oft-cited study. "If you make the analogy to vision, what you and I can see at a third of a mile, a dog could see more than 3,000 miles away and still see as well.'"
These two points add up to meaning that your puppy can still get lots of beneficial socialization by seeing things and smelling them while you maintain a safe social distance.   With that amazing sense of smell,  you can stay quite far away from other people and your dog can "see" them with his nose very clearly.

What is social distancing, anyway?  Good question.  The answer is something of a moving target but in sum it's minimizing non-essential contact with other humans to slow the spread of the coronavirus.  For healthy adults with no risk factors either for having been exposed or being at risk because of a health condition, the President has issued the following directives:

  • ​Work or engage in school at home
  • Avoid eating or drinking at bars or restaurants (use drive through, pick up or delivery)
  • Avoid gatherings of 10 or more people
  • Avoid discretionary travel
  • Avoid discretionary shopping trips
  • Avoid discretionary social trips
  • Do not visit nursing homes or similar
  • Go into public only if necessary
  • Remain 6 feet away from anyone in public (which, by the way, only reduces, not eliminates, your chances of spreading the disease)
 
  • Social distancing is not something you can ethically choose to ignore. The US government and governments around the world have called upon us directly to slow the spread of the virus. "Flatten the curve" means that, while we can't completely stop the spread of the virus, we can keep the serious case numbers low enough so that our hospitals have enough ventilators and staff to care for the critically ill.  So that hospitals don't have more people needing ventilators than are available.  So that medical staff does not have to make decisions about who gets to live and who gets to die. Like in Italy, this week.
  • ​Currently, the US government is asking us for serious social distancing for 15 days.  There's more than enough you can safely do to keep you and your puppy busy and moving forward during that time, after which any puppy should still have at least a flexible period for more "hands on" socialization. That period may or may not be enough to adequately slow the spread, but let's take it one step at a time and do the right thing now. Update Friday, March 20, 2020:  The governors of California and New York State have ordered 100% of non-essential workers to stay home.  Notwithstanding anything in this article, please comply with all federal, state and local laws.

Based on all of these considerations, I've come up with three rough categories for socialization protocols:
  • Green light, meaning go right ahead
  • Yellow light, meaning OK under the right circumstances
  • And red light, meaning not advisable
 First, the green light activities:
  • Drive to new places and allow your puppy to watch the outside world from within the car with the windows rolled up.  Have your puppy ride safely in his crate to each location and then take him out of his crate but stay inside the car when you arrive.  Be ready to give your puppy treats when people approach the car to wave though the glass.  This may also present an opportunity for you to counter condition any budding barrier frustration or car guarding your puppy might have. 
  • Work on recalls and creating good conditioned emotional responses (CERs) to barrier frustration, fence running and moving objects on your own property
    • ​Human household members walking on the other side of the fence
    • Household dogs walking on the other side of the fence
    • Motorized equipment and vehicles
  • Work on leash frustration by parallel walking on your own property with another household dog handled by a household member
  • Power up generalized positive responses to "weird sounds" using Susanne Shelton's protocol here is a link to a previous live event where she explains everything, it's pretty amazing!
  • Attention is the Mother exercises at home using various distractions:
    • ​Household members approaching
    • Other dogs handled by household members approaching
    • Household members touching - foundations for stand for exam
    • Sound distractions
  • Sound socialization recordings
    • ​Passive habituation to sounds
    • Active training and performing learned behaviors for reward with sound in the background
  • Free shaping interaction with novel surfaces and unstable surfaces - something as simple as a large diameter magic marker taped to the bottom of a piece of plywood.  Half a tennis ball glued to the bottom of a yoga block, a snow saucer - this does not have to be expensive or fancy equipment!
  • Free shaping multiple behaviors, both indoors and outdoors on your own property and in as many different rooms as possible.
  • Dress up in various outfits including hats, glasses, wigs, different shoes, etc.
  • Have other dogs in the household wear head cones and bandages
  • Play with other dogs and people in your own household

Whew!  If you're lucky enough to have at least one other household member and one other good dog, you can keep extremely busy with this for the next two weeks and, who knows, all this emphasis on ignoring and emotional regulation just might be as good or better than if your puppy actually interacted with other people and dogs in an unregulated fashion during this time.  At the very least, you'll be removing the possibility of having a negative experience with another dog or person which is a very good thing.

Next, we'll talk about "red light" activities that are no longer advisable: 
  • Non-essential vet visits
  • Dog shows and dog sport venues (which are all cancelled, anyway)
  • Group Puppy Class
  • Public Transportation - even if you HAVE to take public transportation for some reason, you don't want a puppy magnet with you, inviting people to violate your safe distance
  • Non-essential shopping trips
  • Socialization visits to other people's houses
  • Play groups - even if you think you can keep your distance it will be remarkably difficult to wrangle puppies and do the safe and productive thing for them and keep your distance from the other pet parents.  There will be times when you all have to go in and get your puppies and be super close to one and other.
  • Any other activity that puts you in a position where you might have to come in contact with other people - contact being defined as closer than 6'. 

Finally, let's talk about the "yellow light" areas I can't make a decision for you about these items, but I can give you thoughts about making your own decisions.  
  • Your puppy's age and previous socialization experience will come into play, here.  What is discretionary for one puppy may be essential for another.  For instance, I would not bother with most of these activities because my 12 week old puppy has already had a lot of contact with the outside world and she rocked it out with no hesitation. It's just not worth the trouble for me to take the necessary precautions to do most of these activities.
  • But if I had a younger puppy, or a puppy that had more difficulty with her previous socialization, I might avail myself of more of these "yellow light" activities.

So, here are some ideas which I present to you, but I advise a great deal of caution with them:

  • If you have to make an essential trip to a dog friendly venue, you might bring your puppy. But keep in mind that your puppy will attract people to you.  Are you able and prepared to tell people to keep away?  Do you really think you can maintain that safe 6' social distance with an adorable puppy in your arms?  How crowded do you expect the place to be?  If it's a sole proprietorship you might be able to call ahead and explain the situation.  If it's a big box store you're unlikely to be successful in keeping people away.
  • Neighborhood walks if safe from off leash dogs and you will not encounter any pedestrians that you cannot avoid.  See above regarding the difficulties of fending off "puppy fans."  Furthermore, I generally don't love taking my puppy anywhere with any chance of an off leash or "invisible fence" encounter.  Even in regular times, I feel the risk is too great of emotional damage from walks in the neighborhood to justify this activity with a puppy in suburban areas, and you will have difficulty avoiding people in more urban areas where the risk of off leash dogs is less.  For me, this is a no-go but you can make your own decisions based on your particular circumstances. 
  • Visit farm/livestock in rural areas - same considerations as above - can you guarantee there will be no loose dogs or "puppy fans" that you can't fend off?  A nice compromise might be to do a safari where you park, stay in the car, hold the puppy on your lap and roll the window down so he can hear, see, and smell everything
  • Nature Sniff N Strolls - You could take your puppy on a sniff-n-stroll in a natural area where there are steep slopes that keep the "sunday driver" pet owners away and very few people care to go.  But that is really above the paygrade of most puppies (see our Puppy Exercise Article) so it's logistically difficult.
  • Drive to a venue, park your car, keep your puppy in  his crate and open the hatch or door so he can see, hear, and smell everything going on.  Post office, store parking lot, bank parking lot.  Same issues with keeping people away as above, but this is the one I would be most tempted by and probably worth the effort to keep your distance.  You might even set up an exercise pen around the open portion of your vehicle to keep people at a distance, if feasible.
  • Using visitors and visiting dogs on other side of your fence at least 6' away
    • Practice recall and CER to leash and barrier frustration
    • Use as distractions for Attention is the Mother protocols
  • Rent a training building - virtually all group classes have been cancelled so you should not have a problem getting a rental.   But keep in mind that this is still a public place so use appropriate biosafety precautions - don't touch your face, wash your hands, wipe down anything before you touch it.  And I'm assuming you are not in the epicenter of an outbreak...the actual risk will depend on your local outlook
  • Go to the drive through and buy your puppy a cone - I would feel comfortable doing this as food in general is not a good vehicle for the virus, but use these precautions with your take out food. I would bring my own napkins and remove any paper from around the cone. 
  • Private lessons maintaining a 6' distance, preferably outdoors on a warm, sunny day- Again, assuming there are no other risk factors, you should be able to take a private lesson if you and your puppy remain inside a closed ring and the instructor remains outside the ring and maintains the 6' distance no matter where you are.  Coronavirus will have a harder time living on the more porous surfaces outdoors that are exposed to sun and warm temperature.
  • ​Closed System Socialization - if you have a friend that you trust, and that friend has a dog or puppy that is suitable for socializing with your puppy, and both you and your friend have truly been in isolation for two weeks and plan on remaining that way, you might actually do a playdate.  I don't actually know anyone who fits this category, but I imagine there might be some out there.
  • Curbside drop off - Some dog schools and daycares are offering curbside drop off - the puppy gets socialized by the instructors and the owners do not attend class.  Similarly, some puppy owners are doing puppy swaps with curbside drop off, again, so that the humans never need to come into contact with each other.  I'm really not sure about this as a coronavirus hazard - my yellow light with this is more that I would find it very hard to entrust my puppy to another person this way. We can't lose sight of the fact that it's better to do nothing at all than to have something bad happen to your puppy.  I could definitely warm more easily to doing a curbside drop off to or from a trusted friend or trusted trainer who was going to be working with my puppy one on one with dogs that I also know and trust. 
Picture
Getting a cone at the drive through has always been a rite of passage for our puppies, and it's still safe to do.

So, what am I doing with my 12 week old puppy? Well, as luck would have it, I just got back from Australia on Tuesday so unfortunately I don't have a lot of options.  Australia is generally much safer than almost anywhere else in the world, but I had to pass through three airports to get home.  I'm feeling great but I'll be staying put in my house for two weeks from the time I travelled, just to be sure.

Fortunately for us, Alana really did so well with her first off premises socialization that we're not in a rush to push things for the next two weeks. We have a house full of dogs, up until this week we had a house full of people each day, and I did do a lot with her early on.  I will probably do some "closed car" things, but, other than that, I don't see the need to go off premises right now and will concentrate on my "green light" list. 

Once I've been back in the country for two weeks, I'm going to set up some private agility lessons, preferably at my outdoor facility but even indoors I feel we can conduct the lessons safely.  I feel that getting Alana out to understand that novel places mean we train and work together is very important, so that will be a priority for me. I may also be renting a building for training. I have no current plans for socialization with outside dogs or people, but it so happens that because Alana was a singleton I've done a lot of that work with her already - much earlier than I would ever do with a litter, so she has that in her favor.

I think you see how personal these decisions become, based on your unique situation and your puppy's unique set of circumstances. The takeaway from this article is that, 
at the end of the day, any socialization where you can ensure social distancing, yet still control and curate your puppy's experience, is fine. That can look very different, depending on the circumstances, and I don't pretend to have every possible scenario covered here, but I think now you have some good guidelines for making decisions.

All that having been said, as I mentioned at the beginning, it's important to remain fluid and responsive to risks in real time and comply with all federal, state and local laws.  I will be updating this article as necessary but in the meantime, be safe, be careful with your puppies, and be kind to the community!

Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Play Biting is NORMAL

PLAY BITING

Puppy teeth – yes indeed they do hurt! Puppy biting is a perfectly natural behavior. Puppies use their mouths to explore their surroundings; nothing is sacred from puppy teeth. They also use their teeth when playing. Fortunately this is something they usually grow out of when they lose their puppy teeth at around sixteen weeks. Puppies themselves learn that their teeth are sharp when they are still with their mother and littermates. They begin to hurt their mother’s teat when feeding and she will get up and walk away. The pup learns there is a consequence to using teeth. They also learn the consequences of using their teeth too hard when playing with their littermates. If they use their teeth too enthusiastically the game will end one way or another. Either their littermate will yell in pain and stop playing or they may end up fighting.

Remember that dogs only have one defense if they are in pain, frightened or cornered and that is to use teeth. This does not make a bad dog it is simply dog behavior!

Your job is to teach the dog that teeth on human skin are not allowed! You also need to teach him to have a soft mouth. To help him learn to inhibit his bite you need to act like a playmate. Never use your hands or body as a toy when playing with your puppy. Instead use a suitable toy.

If your puppy catches your skin or clothes when you are playing yell ‘ouch’ – a good high pitched yell is needed as though he really hurt you. Get up, move away from your puppy and stop playing. Redirect his teeth onto something more acceptable, a stuffed Kong, the cardboard innards of toilet roll or kitchen roll, a toy or a nylabone or chew. (Don’t give your puppy cheap plastic toys to chew, as they can be dangerous if swallowed.)

Many puppies under 14 weeks will back off when you yell then come back and lick you. Praise and redirect the play onto something appropriate. Some puppies will see the yell as a cue to lunge at you even harder. These puppies are usually over stimulated, over tired or perhaps Terriers! Do not shout, do not use a water pistol, do not scruff or shake, simply remain calm, get up and walk away. Ensure your puppy is getting enough rest during the day – especially if you have children.  Place your puppy on a good diet as some diets have been implicated in effecting behavior. Make sure that everyone in the household treats your puppy the same way. Children should always be supervised when they interact with your puppy, as young children tend to flap their arms around squealing, which only excites the puppy.

Stopping a puppy play biting takes time and consistency. Puppies will latch onto to anything that moves – your trouser leg, the bottom of your dressing gown and your toes! Why, because it gets a reaction from the owner. If this happens, stop walking. Do not get into a game of tug with your trouser leg or dressing gown. Try and redirect your puppy onto something more acceptable.

Being proactive instead of reactive will safely teach your puppy where and when he can use his teeth.

www.apdt.co.uk

Teaching “nibble heeling” - great for puppies!


Sharing from a post on FB by Rachel Kelly at Willorun Vizslas.

Here is a fun training idea for you. I call this “nibble heeling” where you are teaching a very young/green puppy how to focus on you while walking on the leash. Make it fun and you will both enjoy it. I rarely have to give leash corrections when starting my training this way. Over time your dog will focus for longer periods with less food needed. I use the same intermediate bridge + terminal bridge vocal support that I learned from a Kayce Cover workshop (Command followed by sound or word like “good good good” and then a big “YES!” With a reward given) and it works brilliantly with young pups. 

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

6 Natural Ways to Treat and Prevent Worms


Worms are something most dog owners have to contend with at some point. With many people expressing concern about the side effects of conventional worming products, it's good to know that there are a number of natural alternatives that can treat and prevent these pesky parasites in your canine companion.

1. Pumpkin Seeds

Pumpkin seeds are an extremely effective deworming agent because they contain an amino acid called cucurbitacin. This paralyzes the worms making them easily eliminated from the intestine. They can be fed whole as a treat or you can grind them into a fine powder and add to Fido's food. One teaspoon of raw pumpkin seeds (not the salted savory snack ones) per 10lbs of body weight twice a day should do the trick.

2. Carrots

These common orange vegetables are a great source of vitamin A and believe it or not, can get rid of worms in our canine companions. Coarsely chopped carrots scrape the walls of the stomach and gut as they are digested, removing the mucus and any parasites that are within it. Carrots can be fed as a tasty treat or included at meal times they are perfectly safe, boost the immune system and are an excellent source of nutrients for your pet.

3. Coconut

Dried coconut is a vermifuge, meaning it can help eliminate worms from the body. Sprinkle on food, giving 1 tsp for small dogs, 2 tsp for medium dogs and 1 tbsp for large breeds. Coconut oil, when fed regularly, can also rid your pooch of internal parasites as well as having many other health benefits

4. Apple Cider Vinegar

Over the last few years we have all become aware of the health benefits of apple cider vinegar but did you know this fermented apple cider can also work as an effective worm treatment for our four-legged friends. It works because unlike other vinegar it increases the alkaline levels in the dog's intestines making it inhospitable for parasites and worms. Add 1/4-1 teaspoon of raw organic ACV to your dog's water every day you may also notice an improvement in coat condition along with several other health benefits.

5. Turmeric

Turmeric has long been considered a superfood and has been used for generations to boost the immune system and for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. It contains 4 compounds that can help get rid of worms and is also able to repair the damage these pesky parasites cause to the intestine, resulting in a healthier gut. Because the curcumin in turmeric can be hard for dogs to absorb if given along, we suggust combining it with a healthy oil such as coconut oil to create a paste to feed your pup.

6. Chamomile

Chamomile is renowned for its soothing properties which means it can help with any bloating, or inflammation caused by internal parasites. Along with being able to get rid of both roundworms and whipworms. It works best when given as a tincture which can be bought relatively cheaply online or in health food stores. The recommended dose is 0,25 ml - 0.50 ml per 20 lbs of your dog's weight and repeat twice a day for 2 weeks.

Prepare for the Unexpected

Treating and preventing worms the natural way is a great start to ensuring your pup stays healthy, but you should still schedule an annual vet visit where heartworm and parasite testing can be conducted, along with deworming if needed.

Source: https://www.petpartners.com/blog/6-natural-ways-to-treat-and-prevent-worms

Puppy Socialization in the Age of Coronavirus


Puppy Socialization in the Age of Coronavirus

by Gayle Watkins | Mar 17, 2020


Holy cow! What do we do now? For decades, we’ve been told that to raise stable puppies we need to socialize them with many people of different genders, sizes, ages, races, etc. And, we were told that socialization had to be done before 16 weeks of age. That’s the only way to ensure pups would be friendly and confident as adults. 

But the world has changed due to the coronavirus and with it our rules for engaging with other people. Although dogs don’t get ill from this version of the virus, there is concern that they can carry it on their coats, thus transferring it between people. Many puppy kindergarten classes are canceled and dog-training facilities are closed. If we meet people in our neighborhood or on the street, we are supposed to stay at least six feet away from them and not let our puppy interact with them. What is a puppy breeder and owner to do?

Socialization and Development is Still Essential.

Meeting and interacting with an array of people is important to the social development of young puppies. From ages 3 weeks up to 16 weeks, pups are particularly sensitive to social engagement with other dogs, people, even other pets and livestock. In ideal circumstances, we would ensure they met 50 or even 100 people during these early months. However, these aren’t ideal times for anyone. 

Eight Tips for Continuing to Socialize Your Puppy.

So, let’s talk about eight things we can do to raise stable, friendly pups during the Age of Coronavirus.

1) Focus on building your pup’s trust in you and your family. The most important lesson for pups to learn in these early months is to trust people, especially their people. During this time, focus on building that trust through teaching communication, cues, house manners, tricks, and fitness exercises. Practice these things in each room in your house and every part of your yard. Your pup’s trust in you, above all else, will enable you to pick up his socialization again once this is over.

2) Go all chameleon. If your pup can’t meet folks who look different, then change the way you look! Use masks, wigs, hats, umbrellas, cloaks, and more. Have your family play along! Pop up looking like Halloween throughout your house and property, not in a scary way but in a surprising way. Try manipulating your smell, too. You can’t actually change your odor, which is very important to dogs, but you can spritz yourself with some light scent to add to the way you smell.

3) Set up challenging, stimulating experiences at home. Puppy brains and bodies need to be challenged during these months, so think of ways to do this at home. Create obstacle courses in your house or yard. Play scent games, hiding treats for your pup to sniff out around the house and yard. (Just remember not to violate house rules during this game, so no treats on counters.) Let your pup solve all kinds of problems (e.g., how to find you in the house and to solve dog puzzles.)

4) Do Adventure Walks! We may not be able to gather in groups but we can head out into the great outdoors. Make an effort to get your pup to woods, meadows, fields, beaches, and even parks. Adventure Walks enable pups to learn responsibility and problem-solving as well as develop their brain-body connection. And best of all, Adventure Walks tire pups out! We are recording an Adventure Walk webinar this week, so we’ll send out a note when it’s done. Sign up for our mailing list to be informed!

5. Introduce your puppy to as many safe people as possible. Most likely there will still be some safe people in your life. They might be family members, neighbors, or tenants who are staying put at home. Let your pup interact with as many people as you safely can.

6. Let pups see people, places, and things! Even if you can’t introduce your pup directly to new people, your pup can still be introduced to the world. These indirect interactions, where pups see and hear but don’t touch are very important for teaching puppies proper manners. Think through what you want your pup to do when it can see another person or dog but can’t approach. Then teach that behavior to your puppy.Take short trips to let your pup see and hear whatever is happening. No doubt, life is going to be quieter for a while so this may take some effort. Look for garbage trucks, traffic, fire departments, and anything else noisy and hang out with your pup.

7. Get your pup off your property. Pups become location sensitive towards the end of this period, attaching them strongly to their homes and yards. Since we want our pups to be comfortable in many places, we need to get them away from the house. Drive your pup to different places in your area where people aren’t congregating. Playgrounds, parks, outdoor shopping malls, and store parking lots. Take your pup for a ride in a wiped-down shopping cart. Let her jump up on park benches. Invesitigate the playground equipment. Check out dog parkour may give you more ideas but be sure to keep all activities age appropriate so no jumping off of high places.

8. Emphasize handling, grooming, and examinations at home. Most likely your pup will be doing fewer visits to the vet and groomer during the pandemic, so you have to take responsibility for teaching your pup to tolerate handling, touching, and manipulation. We have a blog to help with this. Check it out here.

Get Going.

These are our suggestions for socializing pups during the Age of Coronavirus. They aren’t as ideal as doing traditional socialization but it’s the hand we have been dealt. Interacting with your puppy will also help you handle the stress of the current situation. 

So, develop a plan and get going with your pup. If you have other ideas for puppy owners, please drop us a note or post them in the comments to tell us about them. We’ll post them soon. And feel free to share this post with anyone you know raising a pup or puppies right now.

Monday, March 16, 2020

Add to your Puppy Supplies -- a Pooper Scooper!

Forgot to add this to my MV Puppy Supplies handout! A must have -- the pooper scooper with rake! Rake helps get the poop off the grass. I wish I had a $1.00 for each BB poop I've picked up over the last 7 weeks!



Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PUPTECK-Pet-Poop-Tray-Rake/dp/B07L3RK2WR?ref_=s9_apbd_otopr_hd_bw_b3KZcaB&pf_rd_r=V7GJ4BPEJ3BNGK6KHVZ7&pf_rd_p=40137ee4-bc42-5670-a8dc-a0aa32dd9069&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=3052415011

"On leash" etiquette -- most dogs do not want to meet you leashed dog, ever....

You are Not an Exception to the Rule:  Please Share This Blog Post with ALL Your Dog Owning Friends
Spring is coming!  This means that we all want to get outdoors and enjoy more time in nature.  I am often sad to see this because it means my beloved peaceful trails are overrun with folks who don’t understand trail manners and rules; especially when it comes to dogs.
My dogs do not want to meet your dogs, ever.  There is no situation in the world where my dogs are interested in an interaction with strange dogs.  If they need friends I will hand pick them from the dogs of people I know and trust. Does that make me weird and/or rude?  Okay then, I’m good with that.
I hike in many different places with my dogs and most of those places have very clear leash laws.  I follow them and I expect you to follow them as well. You are not an exception to the rule! Loose dogs running up to leashed dogs is a recipe for disaster.  People need to know this. In fact, two leashed dogs meeting is usually a very bad idea as well. Leashes prohibit natural dog body language from happening and can lead to misunderstandings.  Better to avoid them.  
Yesterday I walked past a woman who had 3 dogs on leash.  I had no choice but to pass her as it was on a boardwalk and there was nowhere to move over and give space, which is my preference if possible.  Hearing her chant of “be nice, be nice, be nice” set my spidey senses tingling for sure. My dogs are trained to move close to my side, focus on me, and keep moving with me in these situations, and they are good at it.  But it’s stressful for them and for me.  
I understand the desire to take your dog out in the world to have a good time. That is exactly why I’m out there. The thing is, many dogs I see out on the trails aren’t enjoying it all that much.  They are busy freaking out about other dogs. They are not “friendly”; they are overstimulated and unable to control themselves. That’s not fun for them. And it doesn’t look like much fun for their owners either.  It would be so much better to seek out a good trainer/behaviorist and learn about appropriate activities and effective ways to address emotional health and well-being. It’s completely possible to teach your dog good trail manners, and that includes ignoring others.  
     
And just to point in case these pics make you think my dogs are not leashed, when I take photos other dogs are not around, my dogs still have their leashes on, I step away, take pics, go back, give treats, and pick up their leashes again.  They are well-trained to stay in that spot until I return to them.
When your dog is screaming and clawing in the air at the end of a tight leash trying to get to my dogs he’s not having a good time and he doesn’t want to be friends.  He’s totally overloaded and likely to do something you will deeply regret if he gets the opportunity. As the human half of the team please take responsibility for your dog’s behavior and seek out qualified help.  
One of my dogs is older.  He has diminished eyesight and doesn’t see well what’s coming at him from a distance.  Your dog streaking towards him causes confusion and concern for both him and for me. Your desire to give your dog freedom does not outweigh my desire to keep my dog secure and comfortable.  Remember, you are not an exception to the rule! I walk in places with leash laws on purpose. I expect my dogs to be safe from being molested by off leash dogs here.  
I so appreciate people who follow the rules and are also thoughtful about how their dog’s behavior might affect others.  When someone calls their dog back to them and puts them on leash I thank them profusely. Simple rule. If you cannot immediately recall your dog regardless of the distractions then there is no way they should be off leash, even in off leash areas.  Second simple rule. Assume that people and dogs are out in the woods to seek solitude, not to make friends. Be polite, smile, nod, and keep moving. If you can’t follow these rules then please get some good training help before you hit the trails again.